Saturday, September 20, 2008

L'Open Tour & Rue Cler

The Bobs and I headed out on the Metro, which would become one of my favorite things about Paris.  But more on that later because at this point we were headed to L'Open Tour--a double decker, grande yellow tour bus that is filled to the brim with (!) TOURISTS.  There are A LOT of them in Paris as you might imagine.

The buses have four different tours throughout the city.  You hop on at one of their many stops, buy a ticket (we got a two day ticket) from the driver for about 30(ish) euro and get handed yellow headphones which you plug into little radio thingies at each seat.  They have seven or eight different languages and as you cruise around the city in this VERY conspicuous HUGE tour bus, you learn about the major landmarks ... or listen to French music while you chill in traffic.  And if you'd like to hope off at any of their stops?  No sweat, you can look around and catch the next bus.  Buses come about every 15 minutes and it was the perfect way for us to lay our eyes on everything we couldn't wait to see.  

Like this ...


Or this ...


The photo below is one of my favorites.  The Seine in the background, this gorgeous clock on the street corner but also the movement of the people.  This city is constantly in motion.  Bikes, vespas, walkers, joggers and cars.  The apartments are small enough to only hold what you absolutely need to get you OUT into the city.  And where yes, there were a lot of tourists, the streets were full of Parisians going about their daily business.  

There are bikes throughout the city that you can rent for a few euros, so it wasn't uncommon to see a gorgeous, well put together Frenchwoman in a skirt and heels cruising up the street with her scarf blowing in the wind.


After L'Open tour, we walked over to a market street called Rue Cler.  They were starting to close for the afternoon--but we were able to see just how distinct each shop was.  A florist may be next to a butcher who would be next to a cheese maker who would be next to a baker.  And there always seemed to be a "Pharmacie" or "Coiffure" (pharmacy or hairdresser) in the mix as well.


The photo opportunities?  ENDLESS.


By that time SSG had been awake for over 24 hours and so we made our way back to the apartment but not before a quick stop at Fauchon, a famous bakery Mrs. Bob and I had been dreaming about.  Fauchon was having their eclair festival that weekend (serendipitous, no?).  We sat around the living room back at the apartment noshing on a baguette we picked up on our way home, a glass of wine and some cheese finishing up, of course, with our eclairs.

I went to bed at 5:30 p.m. Paris time.  Full.  Satisfied.  Happy.

A snippet from my journal when I woke up later that evening:

This city does not disappoint.  I was a little worried about my expectations ... they were HIGH.  But it all is so amazing--huge, intricate, lovely set against blue skies we had today.  I am struck by how NORMAL it is to be here.  It feels like the first time I went through Seattle or Portland.  Like home. 

Snapshot of Coco:

Thank You (Dido)
Crash (Dave Matthews)
Take it to the Limit (The Eagles)
So Are You to Me (EastMountainSouth)
Forgotten Years (Midnight Oil)

Friday, September 19, 2008

Montmartre

See that gorgeous white church on top of that HUGE hill?  That's Sacre Cour, up in Monmartre and that's where SSG stayed ... well not at the CHURCH, but at an apartment in its 'hood.  And the view of Paris from up there?  Almost as heartbreakingly gorgeous as the view from the top of the Eiffel Tower.  But she didn't know any of that yet.  She was just hoping the view of the person who opened the apartment door she knocked on was someone she knew ... or someone she'd LIKE to know.


"Bonjour!"  Bob called out as he swung open the door.
"BONJOUR!"  SSG yelled in relief and excitement waking up everyone in the apartment building.

After many hugs and tears and "I can't believe we're here's!" we all decided that breakfast was in order.  The Bobs had arrived a couple of days prior and had already scouted out a favorite boulengerie for croissants and baguettes.  And despite being on the road for almost 18 hours by that point, CROISSANTS from PARIS were calling my name.  So we walked up this cute street.


And found this little place ...


And we MIGHT have cleaned them out of croissants.  But I'm SURE they had some in the back.


And then we walked back down this street and it hit SSG that she was WALKING.  In PARIS.  Holding bags of CROISSANTS.  And she might have stopped for a second and said "holy SHIT, Bob!"   But I don't think this guy walking toward us heard that (and for the record, NOT French boyfriend material).


We all sat around the dining room table in our apartment, sipping coffee and noshing on pain au chocolat (croissants with CHOCOLATE inside) and au buerre (I think?  Butter croissants ... any French peeps in the hizouse?) with goofy grins on our faces.  

I had NO idea what kind of shape I'd be in by the time I arrived in Paris.  Anyone who knows me personally knows NAPS for SSG are mandatory.  But I think I was so excited to be in this city I've dreamed of forever that I just wanted to get OUT and throw my arms around it.  A quick shower and a change of clothes and we were off!

(And fun side note:  Coquelicot turned out to be one of Clotilde from Chocolate & Zucchini's favorite bakeries in the neighborhood, which is further evidence we were destined to be BFF's.)

Snapshot of Coco:

The Man Who Can't Be Moved (The Script) **Quick side note:  I discovered this band while I was in Paris.  They're from Ireland and are on top of the UK charts right now.  PLEASE part with $1 (or more!) and BUY this song from I Tunes.  This whole CD I've been playing LOUD in my car.  Couple other favorites from the disc--Breakeven & Anybody There which I mentioned yesterday.

She Will Be Loved (Maroon 5)
The Mountains Win Again (Blues Traveller)
Heartbreak Town (Dixie Chicks)
Everything I Own (Bread)